"It takes a Shtetl"
In: Jerusalem Post - February 18, 2000
 
Yaffa Eliach, one of the world's foremost Holocaust historians, has devised a revolutionary - yet breathtakingly simple - plan to defeat Hitler: Don't teach about dead Jews; bring the Jews back to life. Professor Eliach is a university lecturer with the energy of a college sophomore. She pioneered Holocaust courses at universities, but she thinks it is no longer enough to teach about the Holocaust and to document the slaughter and the suffering. It is time, she says, to do something far reaching to undo, in some small way, the impact of the Holocaust by showing that the Jews were far more than victims.
As a four-year-old girl, Yaffa Sonenson saw her prosperous village, Eishyshok, pillaged by German soldiers and Lithuanian collaborators. Some 3,500 men, women, and children were slaughtered in the course of two summer days. She and her father were among the 29 villagers who survived. Now, the young-looking, 62-year-old grandmother is hard at work on what may be the best revenge against Nazism yet taken by any Holocaust survivor. She is planning to rebuild her shtetl - including castle, lakes, and restaurants - here in Israel. The ambitious project - which is expected to cost more than $100 million - is slated to be built in Rishon Lezion, which will be marking its 120th anniversary in the year 2002. 'We just got approval from planning authorities a few days ago,' says Eliach, speaking this week about the project that she and local authorities hope will become one of Israel's central educational and tourist attractions. 'We even have a map, and we will get about 400 dunams [100 acres] - about 800 altogether with the lakes,' the historian adds, noting, 'Money is the main issue now.' But Eliach is already hard at work to raise the necessary funds from private andinstitutional donors. Anyone who has visited the United States Holocaust Museum in Washington, where she established the 'Tower of Faces' exhibit, can have little doubt that she has the ability to push the project to successful completion. The 'Tower' is a collection of more than 1,000 photos depicting life in the  900-year-old village. It took Eliach more than 14 years and dozens of trips to other survivors around the world to gather the photos that make up the exhibit in Washington. But she and Rishon Lezion Mayor Meir Nitzan are hopeful that this new project will begin to take shape within two or three years. 'I remember the Jewish quarter where I lived, and this project is close to my heart,' says Nitzan, 67, who grew up in Romania. '[Late foreign minister] Yigal Allon once said that a people who ignores its past inherits a poor present and a hazy future,' adds the mayor. His town recently passed Holon and Beersheba as the fourth largest city in Israel in population, and it is second only to Jerusalem in terms of area. Rishon officials said the shtetl historical project would fit in well with the city's development strategy. 'It will be established in the southwest of the city with good access routes,' says Rina Shiponi, head of Rishon's international projects. 'We see this as very important for Rishon and for the country in general.' Eliach literally went shopping for a suitable shtetl site around the country before settling on Rishon, because of its central location, development strategy, and the positive attitude of its officials. 'It is important to show Jewish splendor before the Shoah, not just death camps,' says Shiponi, an attitude echoed by Nitzan. 'I think the project is important educationally and as a proper settling of historical accounts,' states Nitzan. 'The Jewish village preserved Jewish life under conditions of exile and strangeness, and much of Jewish life occurred against such a background.' Nitzan emphasizes that he agrees with 'Professor Eliach's view that the Shoah presents the Jewish People as an unfortunate, decrepit nation wearing rags. But the reality was that the Jewish People were rich culturally, materially, and religiously until they were robbed and persecuted. 'As long as they lived under equal conditions,' he continues, 'they [the Jews] contributed greatly to those around them. It's very important to show this especially as we approach 120 years in Rishon Lezion, which was the first settlement in the Yishuv established entirely by new immigrants. All of them came from the shtetl, and that will be a fitting testimony to where we've been and where we're going.' Eliach, who teaches at Brooklyn College and who developed the first university Holocaust courses, believes 'there has been too much emphasis on death and not enough Jewish tradition.' But her home village, she says, was a place where many traditions - Ashkenazi, Sephardi, and non- Jewish - met, producing a 'cross-fertilization' of cultures. She says the revived shtetl will be built around a historical center 'dedicated to documenting the diverse cultural, ethnic and intellectual threads that were eventually woven into the rich tapestry of shtetl life. The museum will also include the history and customs of Sephardi and Ashkenazi settlers from Babylonia, Spain, France, Germany, Prussia, Italy, Holland, Bohemia, Poland, and Russia. Among the settlers were also Karaites and Khazars.'  Eishyshok was one of three prosperous Jewish Lithuanian communities which flourished for hundreds of years, clustered near Vilna, the Lithuanian capital and center of rabbinic learning (home of the Vilna Gaon, Rabbi Elijah) near the Polish border. The other two towns - Aran and Olkenik - also figured prominently in cultural and historical life, according to Eliach.  The restoration project will include both the sacred and the mundane - shops, perhaps the bathhouse, and holy sites. It will feature two synagogues, including a replica of the synagogue from Olkenik visited by Napoleon in 1812.  'Napoleon said it was the most beautiful synagogue he ever saw,' Eliach says. 'He was so impressed he gave the people the blanket cover of his saddle, and this was turned into the parochet of the aron kodesh [the ark].' The synagogue of Eishyshok was special in another way, too, she recalls. 'We davened [prayed] in nusah Ashkenaz [Ashkenazi liturgical tradition], but our Torah reader always read Hebrew like a Sephardi. We always read 'Shabbat' and not 'Shabbes.' That's because the first Torah reader was from Provence.'  But that was not the only reason. The local Jews had a strong tradition of reading Hebrew, and understanding it, far beyond the minimalist needs of a sacred tongue. And Eishyshok was noted for its pioneering Hebrew day school and thriving Zionist movement.  'There was Betar and Hehalutz Hamizrahi and other groups, and there was never a confrontation among them,' she says, smiling wryly because of the current bitterness and rancor among Israel's political camps.  'I want young people to see that and understand how children lived and studied then in Europe. Today they take children on the 'March of the Living,' but it's all about visiting gas chambers,' she says, referring to one of the regular school outings to Polish concentration camps. 'I want them to know that Jews were more than justvictims.' Eliach, whose husband David was principal of the Yeshiva of Flatbush in Brooklyn, is always looking for ways to reach young Jews and non-Jews. She says that many non-Jews - 'including many who never met a Jew in their lives -who visit the Tower of Faces exhibit at the US Holocaust Museum, emerge with a changed perspective. 'We never knew Jews were just like normal people,' they say. That's important. Because if they [the Nazis] could kill a normal town in two days, then they can do anything.' Her point is that the Holocaust was carried out by 'normal' people acting against normal people. Only by showing how easy it is for normal people to cross the line can one help prevent such 'normalcy' in the future. Along with two fully working synagogues, the restored shtetl will include a bakery and several restaurants offering authentic foods eaten by the Lithuanian and Polish Jewish communities until they were wiped out.  'We want to reconstruct the village as close as possible to reality,' says Samuel Raveh, project architect. 'We plan to build public institutions and private houses as they were in the shtetl: two-floor houses, with businesses on the street level, for example a bakery or a photographer's studio, and the living dwellings upstairs.'  Raveh, a partner in the firm Fintzi-Raveh, said that the revived shtetl would not have anyone actually living in the reconstructed community.  The ancient stone town castle that once guarded Eishyshok is being rebuilt, and it will house the archive, museum, and library, as well as an arts center for plays, concerts, and films. 'This is a very big project,' Raveh says, 'and the next month will be devoted to signing the contract.' Giving others a taste of the life of the Jews in the shtetl has been Eliach's driving force for years. She has written many books about her own experience, and her most recent book, There Once Was a World: A 900-Year Chronicle of the Shtetl of Eishyshok, was a finalist of the National Book Award competition in the US. Although she comes from a family of the non-Hassidic mitnagdim, she has won awards for an earlier work: Hasidic Tales of the Holocaust. In one of them, a mother who is about to be murdered along with her family makes a strange demand of a Nazi guard. She demands a knife to circumcise her new baby so that he can die a Jew. In another tale, a non-believing Jew chooses to die a martyr's death on YomKippur, for the sake of Jewish honor. Like other survivors, Eliach feels several lifelong missions: One is to record and disseminate such true stories. Beyond that, however, there is a burning quest to prevent future threats to Jews. When Israelis in the North fled their homes or spent several days in shelters, Eliach felt a special kind identification with them. She makes no bones about her general opposition to territorial concessions that may endanger Jews living here. 'We are putting ourselves back in a situation where we are leaving our homes - that's something I cannot tolerate.'  Eliach, who speaks fluent Hebrew and visits Israel many times a year, is even more adamant about not dealing with Syria after its official newspapers published articles depicting Jews as Nazis as well as other articles denying or minimalizing the extent of the Holocaust. 'I think the State of Israel should have strenuously opposed and exposed what the Syrians said and did,' she says.  However, Eliach feels it is very important to push the lessons of the Holocaust in a universal way, among non-Jews - not just to prevent antisemitism, but to stop racism or prejudice of any kind. 'My most satisfying moment is when my students tell me that the classes change their attitudes towards other ethnic groups,' Eliach says. Recently, she made her first trip to Germany as part of an educational project. This as before the ascendance of Joerg Haider in Austria. But Eliach makes clear that hat distinguishes German society from Austrian society - and even from Frenchsociety - is the strong desire by German youth to study their country's past. 'I hadn't been in Germany since 1945, until about five years ago. I refused to set foot on German soil. I don't believe in forgiveness. I believe in remembering, teaching. and I believe in creating a relationship with the young generation. I never, absolutely ever, devoted even one second of my time to hate. The children in Japan couldn't believe that I wouldn't hate,' says Eliach, who gave 14 lectures in Japan and spoke at the Hiroshima Peace Center. Eliach says many Japanese - the only people to suffer an atomic attack - try to picture themselves as being akin to Holocaust victims. Eliach told them the Holocaust was unique and that the Japanese were not just victims. 'I told them they had to make changes. They had to come to grips with Pearl Harbor, and they cannot compare the United States to what the Germans did to us. I told them: 'How can you say that?' when they - some of them - compared America to Germany.' But she has a good word for the younger generation in Germany which is examining its past. 'In Germany, especially the young people who lived under Communism in the east are positive about learning from the past and about changing the future, but the older generation does not feel comfortable talking to people like me. Some feel guilty for not doing anything or perhaps sometimes they were actually involved in the murder of Jews. Most of them, however, admit they knew what was happening.' She says the recent experiences in Bosnia and Kosovo showed that 'ethnic cleansing' is not a thing of the past. Indeed, she says, 50 years after the liberation of the death camps, many European leaders turned a blind eye toward genocidal activities, especially when committed by political allies. Although she has no kind words for Serb leader Slobodan Milosevic, she also blamed the German government of former chancellor Helmut Kohl for encouraging the break-up of Yugoslavia through German support of Croatia. Eliach says she supports studying recent episodes of repression and genocide, but she stresses that the Holocaust was an event of unique proportions. 'We were the ultimate victims. We couldn't cross borders or even convert.' During her recent trip to Japan where she established a Holocaust exhibit atHiroshima, Eliach says: 'I told them that the Holocaust was unique. It introduced new concepts in mass murder. We have to do everything to make sure that nothing like it happens again. 'What distinguished between us and animals is that we have the right to choose. What happened to us in the Holocaust shows what happened to Germany and the collaborator nations. It has to do with man, not with God.' Like her colleague Elie Wiesel, Eliach does not blame God for the Holocaust. She blames man - for failing to keep God's precepts. But her father disagreed. She recalls that her father, Moshe Sonenson, had a severe crisis of faith when his wife was killed. 'When my mother was murdered, my father's first sentence was against God. His first sentence was that he would not believe any more in God. My reaction was different.' She feels that the hassidic perspective offers good guidance for the unimaginable suffering of the Holocaust. 'Hassidism says that evil wasn't created. It was the fact that good was squeezed out. The Nazis were not Satan. They were very normal, and that's why that kind of evil can be prevented.' Looking to the future, Eliach and Nitzan believe the full-size shtetl in Rishon Lezion will eventually attract thousands of visitors, much like the American colonial replica village in Williamsburg, Virginia. 'The shtetl restoration,' says Eliach, 'will bring to life a vanished past, and it will cast light on the ways in which that bygone world lives on in the culture and institutions of its descendants now scattered around the globe.  'Although many countries have done historical restorations, nothing like it exists to document the history of the Jews of Eastern Europe.'  

Byline: Michael Widlanski